In the 1960s Bristol was subject to an idea, a new way of thinking, at that time, about town planning and there being an over-arching need for new and improved road networks. Areas of Hotwells and Totterdown were in the forefront of this movement and marked for clearances and demolitions. Consequently, whole streets, houses, even libraries and schools were to be, and indeed were, knocked down to make way for the modern era of by-passes and flyovers! The open space created in the Hotwells area, as a result of the above planning policies, was named the Cumberland Piazza. Dame Sylvia Crowe was then commissioned to design and build the Piazza.

Dame Sylvia Crowe (1901-1997) [RHS Chelsea Flower Show Gold Medalist 1936 & Awarded CBE 1967]

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A Personal Connection

A photo walk around Cumberland Basin

As the Covid pandemic abated across the UK, I sat in an upstairs seat on a 'double decker' bus travelling to Bristol. I forget the reason for the journey though remember it was a super day weather-wise and my first trip not driving. I was quite surprised at how much one can see when not tasked with paying attention to the road and having such a relatively high viewpoint at the front of a bus. Both the outbound and inbound legs of my bus ride from Weston-super-Mare to Bristol took me over the Plimsoll Swing Bridge and Cumberland Basin. I thus decided there and then I'd return soon with a pen, paper and camera to write about and photograph this place.

Forward to 25th November 2022 and the start of a project that I have had in mind now for a year or more – indeed some people may even consider this story itself a journey of sorts. In any case it will be my story of an area that holds many memories, both for me and for others I’m sure, as part and parcel of Bristol's history.

I alighted from a First-Bus X1 Direct at Trinity Church, then made my way from Hotwells Road, via Bristol Gate, back toward Cumberland Piazza. I then passed by Dowry Road, crossed Faraday Road – under the exits from Bennett Way/Bristol Gate and entries to Bristol Gate/Cabot Way to the Plimsoll Bridge on the Hotwells side – and accessed the Piazza area. I had arrived!

Photograph: Entering Cumberland Piazza, taken under Cabot Way, looking towards Bristol Centre.

First steps into the Piazza and I just about remember this area before the flyover was constructed and the Plimsoll Bridge was installed. When the scheme was completed back in the 1960s, the structures and basin itself all seemed so grey and industrial. Yet, here it is full of colour – vivid colour – on this a bright, warm and uncommonly summer-like, November day! I step a little further into the Piazza and turn to face in the opposite direction.

Photograph: Entering the Piazza, taken under Cabot Way, now looking towards Avonmouth.

So much of the visual appeal of the area is now provided by street art; this isn't simply graffiti or slogans, but painting with a purpose: a desire to lift this place out of mediocrity.

Progressing toward the Cumberland Basin side of the Piazza, the high-contrast low-angle sunshine makes for little detail in the highlights or shadows. Of course, there are slogans and tags, daubed here and there, as is the nature of these things. Licence is simply taken to add to, change up, or cover over, that which is in situ and this is often done without any sentiment.

Photograph: Note the decreasing clearance as Bennetts Way 'lands' joining Cabot Way and the Portway.

However, there are some artworks that seem as if they are protected, respected maybe, watched over perhaps or looked after by the local community even.

Photograph: Taken under Bennetts Way. A mural showing 'Women of Hotwells' painted on the side of Bristol Gate. Cabot Way is beyond, where it joins with Humphrey Davy Way.

Walking on under Bennetts Way across the public space, I come to an information board titled 'Ebb & Flow' which refers, I think, to the tides and how the lock gates are used to manage water levels for access to and from the dock. Also, it appears to lend its name to a housing development in the area.

Photograph: Taken next to Bennetts Way. An 'Ebb & Flow' information board and a pedestrian stairway up to the elevated road level.

Turning around and walking out from under the flyover, whilst still standing in its shadow, I see where the three roads – Bennetts Way, Bristol Gate and Humphrey Davy Way – join.

Photograph: Painting and colouring aside – rarely is it a good idea to build a road over peoples heads.

Back underneath Bennetts Way flyover again, and there is a stairway up to one of the bridge control booths situated on Bristol Gate at the Hotwells end of the swing bridge. Also, across Cumberland Basin Road we can see the water of the basin itself for the first time.

Photograph: Across the Piazza towards and beyond Cumberland Basin Road.

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